Before assuming a fault: check the door seal, the vents behind the food, and whether frost has blocked the freezer — most "not cold" calls are airflow, not compressors.
Likely causes, ranked
- Blocked internal air vents Most likely — Food packed against the back vents stops cold air circulating between compartments. Hotpoint E2/E5 sensor faults often follow poor airflow.
- Frosted evaporator (defrost failure) Likely — A thick frost layer at the back of the freezer means the auto-defrost has failed (Hotpoint E3/E4 defrost sensor faults). Fully defrost to test.
- Door seal leaking Likely — A note-paper test on the seal shows gaps. Warm, damp air freezes on the evaporator and warms the cabinet.
- Sensor or control board fault Less likely — An E-number code on the display confirms an electronics fault — the compressor may run but the board cannot regulate temperature.
First checks
- Leave a 3–4 cm gap between food and the back wall and vents.
- Do the note-paper test on both door seals; clean seals with warm soapy water.
- If frost is thick, empty the freezer and defrost fully (24 hours, doors open).
- Check the appliance has 5 cm of ventilation space at the sides and back.
- Reset: unplug 2 minutes, wait 30 seconds, power back on.
Safety
Unplug before defrosting or pulling the appliance out. Never chip frost off with a knife — it punctures the evaporator and writes off the appliance.
Call a professional when…
A code such as E1–E6 shows after a full defrost and reset, or the compressor never runs — a sensor, defrost heater or board needs an engineer.